The Buzz

Pouring a Garden Party

By | April 07, 2017
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Ryan Welliver is a name that Charleston knows. From winning cocktail competitions, to being the creator of Charleston Wine and Food Festival’s official cocktail, down to magazine articles and TV appearances, Welliver’s name rings through the Charleston food and drink scene.

Walking up the steps to The Cocktail Club to interview the bar manager, I wasn’t sure what to expect. His name was given to me with the accolades of being one of Charleston’s top mixologists. One who was responsible for much of The Cocktail Club’s drink menu, and seemingly much of their success. I wasn’t sure what I was getting into. I wondered, will there be a swift dismissal with a touch of arrogance (we’ve all had those bartenders) or will his energy exuberate and fill up the room. What’s the passion behind his work? What’s the meaning? What am I about to get into? As I sat down at his bar, I learned something quickly; Ryan Welliver—much like the marvelous cocktails he creates—will surprise you.

When asked the obvious question of how he comes up with a new cocktail, his eyes light up, a smile crosses his lips and he replies with a simple answer of “I just do.” But behind the answer, I discovered an almost scientific, but largely creative, process. The 25 year old behind the bar is wildly passionate about the hospitality industry, wanting to create happy and memorable experiences for guests; he truly loves what he does. Welliver believes the way to get people excited is to surprise them with what they’re drinking. His goal: put something unexpected in front of them, but still work within the guidelines of what they request. Mixing his passion with pride and a competitive drive, as well as a self-proclaimed “fascination for nature,” it appears a perfect combination for success isn’t just part of his mixology. 

 

So what is the process of creation? It always starts with fresh ingredients. “I always keep it fresh – not just the ingredients, but the style and presentation of the cocktail,” Welliver explains. On his rooftop garden, Welliver grows a variety of herbs and citrus-anything from the usual rosemary and oregano, to more interesting lemon verbena, chocolate mint and Charleston cilantro; blood oranges and Myer lemons are some of his favorites to work with. He even explores the spicier side with scotch bonnet and Charleston hot peppers! Bringing the ingredients down to his kitchen, he plays with canning and jarring, using the finished product as a part of the experimental game of combining different flavors in crafting something that anyone can love. When you sit at Welliver’s bar, he methodically goes through a mental list of what style of drink will create the connection and experience you are looking for. He thinks through flavors and deliveries (i.e., infusion, tincture, syrup, rinse) along with flavor modifiers, such as spirits or other liqueurs, to add depth. He thinks about the type of sugar he’ll use, the type of acid—citrus juice, vinegar shrub or wine? What kind of ice will accentuate the flavors and the taste profile he’s going for? And finally, which glassware will complete the experience? “I really enjoy watching people take their first sip, recognizing a flavor, but not quite able to put their finger on it. When someone is drinking what they expect to be eating, it totally changes the perspective.” Welliver plays with this process over and over, until something comes together that he believes works. And so far, Charleston thinks it works too. “It’s the element of surprise. When my customers ask ‘what’s in this?’ snow peas or chiles are not what they typically expect to hear” Welliver sheepishly confirms.

Welliver‘s approach to mixology is deep and thoughtful. He devotes his free time to educating himself about gardening, growing and unique flavor profiles. Always striving to create both a cocktail and an environment that is fun and an experience, he views each person he serves as an opportunity to create something new that brings joy and connection. And to paraphrase Welliver, he just does.

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